Hi Darren
Thanks for putting up the static photos. I can’t help you on what hull it is though others may know. Aspects of it remind me of the Challenger although I don't think it is a Challenger.
I like the decals.
Did you build the boat from scratch or was it purchased ready to run?
I’d be interested seeing a photo showing the transom hardware shot from the side and directly behind the transom.
From what I can see from the second photo, I’d like to offer two suggested changes to try.
Firstly I would try the turn fins pointing vertically down so that more of the blade is in contact with the water. I think you may find it further helps to prevent spinning out on turns.
Secondly your rudder support bracket seems to slope down away from the transom resulting in the rudder blade way off vertical. (Correct me if wrong here as difficult to tell from the photo.)
If the bottom of your rudder blade is angled towards the front of the boat, it will tend to dip the nose of your boat in turns.
I would recommend that you adjust the set up so that the blade is more vertical and see what difference it makes.
This photo shows my Lynx prior to its first run. Since then I’ve kept the turn fins vertical and I have adjusted the rudder blade so that the bottom leading corner has been moved back (away from transom) by about 4mm to lift the bow in turns.
One final point, have you got a gap between the dog drive of the prop and the strut support? You need a 4 to 6mm gap to allow for the flexi shaft winding in under load otherwise you’ll be losing a lot of power and stressing the flexi shaft. I am assuming here that your flexi shaft drives straight through to the prop with no additional coupling or joint at the transom.
Cheers
Craig