RCgroups.com and gopednation have one. They do not suck.---Well for your ego they do. I love them to show people like you how wrong you are (not your fault I know,--I missed the progressive education indoctrination and union jobs). Yea---it must suck. Hey, your life and future vision is getting worse by not agreeing with me--not better.

This thinking is a result of very advanced drilling of the brain. My future is bright as I'm learning how to correctly operate my machine versus worrying about which as hole is president and making excuses why I cant make anything with a machine I spent my money on . Try visiting a mastercam and inventor forums for learning something l useful.The latter here is useless. If rcgroups and goped have a political forum -THERE YOU HAVE IT - a place for disenfranchised cry babies to vent. While the rest of us continue to retool ourselves for the future.

I believe in America and its democratic process no matter what FIGUREHEAD ends up in office.
Im done with this as I enjoy model boats and the applied sciences not polititains or lobbyist .

...... Also If you use the right drill from the giddy up it will stay centered without a bunch of preparation. Want a good hole? Get yourself some 4 and 6 point faceted drill bits.


Happy boating!

Here are two additional ideas on this topic:

Center Punch Sets:

In the first post, second paragraph, ESP is explaining the importance of the
divot size as compared to the first pilot drill selected. I agree 100%.

Divot size can be expanded very quickly (to allow for a larger first pilot
drill) by using center punches in a progressive series. The first center
punch (the one with the sharpest point) is often called the prick punch or
the starter punch. If this punch is on the mark, a second stroke with a
larger punch and a slightly duller point will expand the divots diameter.

- be gentle with the starter punch or it may require frequent sharpening
- wait to increase the blow force with the successive and larger punches
- the weight of the hammer head is a factor - if there is no 2 or 3 LBS.
engineer's hammer in the collection, this is a good time to get one

The Center Punch Set can also be used to move a divot that did not start
out in the exact desired location.

Note that some punch and chisel sets have a varying number of center punches
included. Choosing a set which includes at least three center punches - a
starter punch and two sizes larger/duller is a nice assortment to start with.


Start The Pilot Drill As Slow As Possible:

The easy way to see if the first pilot is going to stay centered in the divot
is to start the drill turning very slow.

Electric Hand Drill - Many hand drills now have a speed control. Turning the
speed down to the minimum setting will help insure the drill will start cutting
in the correct spot.

Drill Press - Engaging the tip of the drill and turning the chuck by hand
often provides a confirmation things will go the way intended.

Once the pilot drill has proven it can cut the center of the divot, go for it!

___________________________________________

For those just starting out using center punches, some practice on aluminum,
mild steel and stainless steel scraps will provide some of the important info
about workpiece/material hardness which has not been explained here.

Excellent post. That is exactly how it is supposed to be done. Punches should be hardened & ground. I have been told that old toolmakers could put holes within .005" on center with the method you described. Many times the hole location would be marked with a properly ground carbide tipped height gage.

JA

Actually my dad was a miner! My brother is a journeyman machinist...He's now actually management, but only recently switched over to managing the shop...he was hands-on machinist on old school machines to the full blown milling centers they now mostly use. I want to go work for him when I retire from my job! ha ha!!! I just really love machining when I can.

For those just starting out using center punches, some practice on aluminum,
mild steel and stainless steel scraps will provide some of the important info
about workpiece/material hardness which has not been explained here.

A very telling statement here. Knowing how certain alloys react to being cut when drilling, machining or grinding is an immense help. For example, #400 series stainless steels will easily work harden during drilling operations if enough pressure is not used. Peck drilling helps clear out chips when drilling gummy materials such as some #6000 series aluminums. Good stuff to help get the job done without problems.

JA