Hi folks

What kind of prop balancer do you use?

Does yours have any features that you particularly like or indeed dislike?

The one I use comprises of a simple spindle suspended between two powerful magnets. Two cones ensure that the hub is supported concentric to the spindle.

I find it extremely sensitive and very easy to use.

The downside to it being so very sensitive is that it takes me ages to get a prop that settles in one place!

Here’s a photo of mine:

Cheers
Craig

Balancers threw the years have been a shaft on parallel razor blades too a big concentric disks overlapped that shaft lays into ... too the modern ferric shaft suspended by magnetic fields

All had attributes and bad points pending design in question

One thing that is consistent across all types is the precision in which each type is built so flaws in design don't lead to errors in balance.

* Razor blade types need blades edges to be nick free and shaft precision ground so it rolls without catchs. Best design when heavy items need to be balanced due to no give on part of the design in general.

* Wheel types need to be VERY clean on wheels contact surface and shaft again smooth.
These too can balance heavy parts but are not as sensitive as the blade types.

* Magnetic balancers only real key item is shaft used MUST have precision ground points on each end & face of magnets used smooth so shafts true center line rotates accurately.
There capacity in carrying heavier parts is size of shaft and power of magnets.

Personally LOVE magnetic balancers owning 3 different sizes for covering all the R/C boat & engine uses one may need.

Hi Scott

I much appreciate your feedback as no doubt you have a great deal of experience.

I’d be interested to see photos of your 3 magnetic balancers.

In respect of what you said about the magnetic balancers I did with mine (shown above) fine finish the surface of the magnets. The small diameter shaft already appeared precision ground, tapered and coned at the ends so I left that as it is.

Some balancers that I’ve seen on the market come with several shafts of different diameter designed to hold the hub of the prop by simply sliding the prop on. The concern I have with such mounting methods is that the slightest tiny bit of play between the hub and the supporting shaft will throw the prop off centre.

I prefer mounting the hub with a tapered bush to ensure accurate concentricity.

Regards

Craig

Craig,
Like you my basic unit is the plastic Top-Flight balancer.
www.centralhobbies.com/props/i...s/tfpropbal.gif

Traveling in my tool box resides a VooDoo balancer.
www.modelgasboats.com/plugins/...er.DSCN3038.JPG

In home shop where I do engine parts as well as raw prop prep a BIG unit that was once built by Vince of Gas RC Products.
www.modelgasboats.com/plugins/...Cupping-035.jpg

The two more serious balancers use a SHAFT sized to hub of props being balanced or a special shaft with NON-MAGNETIC cones like the true flight design allowing flywheels etc to get checked.

* Also have a Du-Bro wheel type that NEVER gets used any longer
pics.towerhobbies.com/image/d/dubq0130.jpg



** As for the fixed shaft fitting props hub loosely causing errors has not been found to be an issue when quality cast props are getting used.
Trouble with cones is ANY prop that has a Drive dog or prop nut end lack of being finished square and true has cone self center its self on the odd face angle placing shaft no longer on true center line threw hub





Craig Dickson wrote:

Excellent response Scott!

You were right to point out the importance of having a cone or tapered hub support being only good if the hub faces of the prop are finished true and square at both ends.

Prior to using my Top-Flite balancer that is the first thing I focus upon.
It seems to me that it a question of achieving the best compromise as there is no such thing as perfection.

Craig

When it comes to the importance of concentricity when achieving near to perfect balance of a spinning object....

I relate to that when focussing upon my second hobby being wood turning. When I make pens the timber of the outer enclosure has a thickness of 1mm and I work to within 3 hundreds of a millimetre. Anything outside that makes the difference between a good pen and a special pen.

Ok I know this is a bit off topic but the image below shows my passion for stuff that is well finished:

In this case it is a fine pen that I made:

Hi Craig.

Wow! This pen is beautifull! Craftmanship and perfection!
What would the price be for one like this in a presentable box shipped overseas to Denmark (Europe)?
(Just curious so far - you can respond directly to my MGB-mail, if it suits you best).

That was off topic too - sorry
Actually I also found some usefull informations about prop balancers.

Cheers!

Woodie.

Craig Dickson wrote:
I've made a few pens myself...lot's of fun! Now I'm working on something a bit different...a wood clock!

Hi

As it was I that opened the original topic I hope it is okay to move it a bit off track.

Woodie:
Thank you for your compliments on my pen. I could not give you a price for one at present because I am committed to making several for folks locally and my wife promised her work office colleagues that they would be finished ages ago. Oh and now I want to focus upon boating.

Marc:

I am pleased to hear that you too do wood turning. I find that the skill set required for top quality precision turnings and finishing really does help when doing fine wood work on model power boats.

Your clock I hope will challenge you.

One of the greatest challenges for me on the turning front is hand turning a matching pair of anything. Turned so that they do look truly identical.
If you want to try something really different Marc you could have a go at matching salt and pepper mills such as these two sets that I made: (need to be firmly mounted and balanced when doing the internals!)

Cheers

Craig

Wow!!! Those are absolutely beautiful!!! I don't think I will try my luck at those just yet...I've been considering doing some for a while now though...I will eventually get around to it!

P.S. the clock I'm building is from plans purchased. I cut most of the parts on my CNC. I do have a lot of manual work to do on them though, as well as a lot of custom fabrication with wood and brass mostly. Interesting little project to get the mind off other things at times.