Hi, new on here with some questions.
could someone please tell me how to get the tube not to leak water into the hull? I have tried to fill it with grease but it just flushes out in 1-2hours.
Should i use a gap between the drivedog and the strut on this type of setup? I have heard both, the shaft is a round one.
I have also filled the strut with grease but it also flushes out very fast and the rear bearing have already started to sound bad after 3 tanks of gas.

Joakim

The grease will leak out whatever you do as the flex pushes it to the stern. If it leaks on the inside you can put a short piece of tubing as a seal on the inboard side of the stuffing tube or just live with it as most of us do. No way I would wait for over an hours running before greasing the shaft.

If you are using a flex welded to the propshaft and a collet at the engine i.e. the flex is fixed then you should have a gap at the strut, 6-8mm, as the flex shortens under power.

Might just be the picture but it doesn't look like a brass stuffing tube going into the strut, looks like just a teflon tube. You should fit a brass stuffing tube to guide the flex. You can use a larger one and have the teflon inside or just ditch the teflon and run with brass, most do.

Ok, tighter maintenance to the shaft and tube then.

The shaft is welded to the propshaft, on the engine there is a clutch with a collet and on the prop side there is an adjustable strut so the shaft is fixed, the boat came with no play at the strut so i thought it would be that way, if i adjust the gap to 6-8mm the rear strut bearing will be loose since it is nog glued or welded in place?

You are right, the tube is a teflon and no brass, could i fit a brass ond with teflon liner and still adjust the strut?

The boat is a rtr segad 58" that i have mounted a 29,5cc 7,7hp engine in, have only tested it once with the pipe 40mm to long, i have shortened the header and will try it again this evening.

Joakim