Hey guys. I have noticed that some of you refer to setups as Oval or S.A.W. Whats the differance between the setups? I'm not asking what S.A.W. means I just want to know how the setups are differant. Thanks for your help have a great evening.

Any oval racer can be set up loose and run SAW .... But for those chasing the clock, SAW can be a whole different game with SAW boats made specific for the task of running light and slippery on the water.

Monos are the easiest because most will set up a shallow V with shorty rudder, make sure ride surfaces are flat as Kansas ... prop up, remove turn fins and get it running as light on the water as possible without flying.

The Riggers however will be VERY aerodynamic in tub & sponsons with ride surfaces often shingled or stepped for less drag, No turn fin, shorty rudder, water blast cooling in some cases, BIG props and short pipe .... The game is SPEED, you don't need to turn well or handle race water ... just built to go like stink in a straight line.

** This just the basic idea, the exotic hulls of top SAW racers are indeed unique model boats.

SAW boats you are trying to go as fast as you can in a straight line. Oval boats you are trying to run laps as quick as you can, so you have to be able to turn hard and fast, while being fast in the straights.

You guys are missing the point or maybe I'm not being clear enough. I know what the boats are set up to do and what conditions they are set up to run in. The question is what makes the setup oval and what makes the setup S.A.W?

gforce wrote:
We already have said it .... Low Drag such as little rudders, No turn fins, special attention to ride surfaces, special hull designs, Big props and short pipes do best at SAW .... what part of that are you not understanding ?

Oval boats need bigger rudders, turnfins, wetter trim to stay on the water with other boats,Hull designs that can go fast in rough race water, smaller props giving broad speed control, longer pipe for broad power range ..... Pretty straight up stuff that's been said already.

I sence a tone in that responce thats not real friendly thats what I understand! Your final post is a much better explanation then your first. Maybe you still dont understand what I am trying to get at or again maybe I am not explaning correctly. For instance the differance in drag cars and oval cars is huge. Weight, tire size, horsepower, length of the car, gear ratio body style, suspension type and range of travle, fuel type and I can go on forever about the differances. I can think of a few things that I think might be differant between oval and saw boats but you didnt mention them so should I assume that they are not as important as a shorty rddder on a v. For instance motor placement,fuel type, weight of hull, surface piercing prop or not, Depth of the strut, Weather or not a cowl is required in saw events? If all it took to go fast was a short rudder big prop and short pipe and no turn fins I think a lot of people would be going a whole lot faster. Maybe I'm over thinking the setup thing...

gforce wrote:

You're right that if anyone could just go fast they would be...but there is always more to it then just spending $$ for the best stuff. You still gotta know how to setup and trim the boat (unless you just pay for that too )

Comparing Drag Cars to Oval cars is apples to oranges especially when trying to use that as for boats in saw or oval trim really. SAW boats arent going from a stop, trying to launch the hardest it can, yadda yadda.

Really the overall setup ie cg, probably wouldnt be that different between a SAW an Oval boat. Some of the record oval boats you could probably just loosen up and change props & set saw records with too. For the most part the SAW boats and Oval boats are still using the same motors, around the same power. My oval boat that with oval trim prop ran 66-67mph ran 70 with no other changes but prop.


You dont have to run a cowl if you dont want. Some boats may require some cowl to get them to tame down a bit and not just blow off every pass.

gforce wrote:
My response has nothing too do with being unfriendly, simply stating the question asked had been answered in a few responses that you were not understanding ?

If what you are asking is on the specific design of SAW boats, that info has too be gained by going to a SAW event in person and learn by seeing first hand what they do.
Photographs and speed secrets scared about these boats are VERY few and far between.

No insult or being short with you was intended ...

Regards,
Scott

I think your question is ahead of your basic grasp on where DRAG comes from ?
You have TWO areas that must be addressed ..... HYDRODYNAMIC drag (Water) and AERODYNAMIC drag (Air)

So in terms of "Water Drag" ... Rudder, Turnfins, Hulls wetted surface, Prop sharpness and how thin ALL need to be dealt with.

In terms of "Air Drag" .... Hull shape that see's the wind, areas that create turbulence need to be covered and streamlined. Exposed antennas even create drag, as do fake spoilers and scale add on details.

Hopefully this gets you thinking that the question while quite basic, does involve a lot deeper attention to these small details above.

Virtually ALL Really fast boats Model or Real need to use Surface Piercing Drives and props.
Hardware that has to be dragged threw the water is DRAG !! ... And again, even the stuffing tube running under a hydro if it is getting hit by water ahead of the strut creates drag !!

INEEDSPOTS wrote:

I have to Disagree on this.....Not the Same:dry: