Hey Guys,

I am finishing up an Avenger Aeromarine build and I am kind of unsure how to fix a bracket to the rear for the exhaust. I have seen a lot of different styles and it was easier to mount to the rear deck of my two hydros. Just wanted to see what some of you guys have done with cats. I like simple and clean. I was thinking about whether to mount to the strut, the top deck or a separate bracket to the transom. I have a BH Hanson 2 in band pipe. I talked to Remy about it and he offered up a braket that needed to be welded to the pipe itself. No go for me. Also, once you mount and want to adjust the length, doesn't that throw the allignment off of the pipe bracket. I have a 105 deg header leading to the rear and I don't want to drill a hole through the transom.

Hi,
There are lots of solutions, you have mentioned a few. The one I have found to answer your question is to mount it to the strut through bolt. You only need some thin alloy strapping about 3/8 inch wide , twisted through 90 degrees and mounted to the stinger with a:) simple loop with a small bolt and nut on the stinger. I know if you have to adjust your strut for different running conditions you can just slide the bracket back and forth along the stinger.
Hope this helps
Cya Graeme

Yea Basically a small piece of 1/8 inch wall 90 degree angle aluminum attached to strut blade anchor screw, a stub of heavy wall aluminum tubing topped with an aluminum arm and pipe saddle, all tightened together with a single 10-32 screw down threw it.

Beauty of this is it can be swung left to right finding the natural center of pipe not binding the coupler o-rings. Strut can be adjusted without effecting pipe support position. Very K.I.S.S

Couple things. Why did you smash the end of the pipe into that shape? Have a nipple at the end feeding water to the pipe...Is that for sound dampening and how do you keep the water from flowing back into the cyclinder? Pretty creative stuff going on there Scott. I like it. Kind of the Mad Scientist.

Pipe end is nothing more than a chunk of cut off 7/8 SS header.
Crushed tip in a lathe chuck ... It breaks up sound waves more helping eliminate the distinct Raspy crackle. Waste water from cooling exhaust manifold and pipe/header connection used to further take away noise.
( BTW pipe is a 1" header internal stinger Power master ) So already pretty quiet, this takes it down to @ 87-88 DBa :drinks:

Very considerate in sticking with the noise limits. So I guess by making the mods to the pipe itself, you are eliminating the need for a power robbing muffler?

Not really the case, I often stinger down the outlet of tuned pipes to get a broader power band and a harder top end hit.
Many times adding a muffler will show gains in performance and not a loss

In application the PM pipe shown in an internal stinger design and typically a +/- @ 90 DBa pipe. The addition of the 3 way tip and water cooling just takes it down further with ZERO effect on the state of tune with chosen stinger size.

Just learned something new. Whenever I read something that I have a hard time understanding I wince at the screen for two minutes and then whammo, the principle sets in and the smoke come from my ears. Muffler can aid in performance because of the entension it adds. Got it and thanks.